31 August 2024

Lighthouses! in Bretagne

North Finistère's Breton Coast has the highest concentration of lighthouses (Phares) in the world! We decided to see a few...

L'île Vierge

We started with the Phare de Men Ruz, on the Pink Granite Coast, with friends.


We tried to follow the coast when we relocated from the Côte d'Armor to Brest, but the weather didn't cooperate! We stopped for a mystically foggy view of a dolmen, then went directly to our new place. 

Eventually, the chanting (rain, rain, go away, come again another day) worked! 
We started our Route des Phares with the Petit Minou - it overlooks a fort, and faces the Crozon Peninsula (another trip!)


A bit further down the road, we came to the Phare de Saint Mathieu. It was built in 1835 on the ruins of an ancient abbey, on top of which the monks kept a fire to guide sailors to the entrance to the Brest roadstead (a partly sheltered anchorage for ships).



We drove a bit farther to view the Phare de Kermorvan across the estuary from Le Conquet.


We went on to the Corsen Point, the westernmost point of continental France! Although there are no lighthouses here, you can see the western islands (our day wasn't clear enough for more than a hint).




A bit farther was the Phare du Four (Oven lighthouse). The history of seaweed harvesting is interesting (and unexpected to me)! It's used in all sorts of things - medicine, food, fertilizer, cosmetics... I tried a sauce containing seaweed - it was... ok.

The walk from the parking lot to the end of the peninsula was full of interesting sights!

Rocky headlands


The Cromlech Pors-an-Toullou et Ar-Verret - a Néolithique édifice 


A first glimpse...


The lighthouse!


One of the many seaweed ovens, used to burn the seaweed into useable ash


On the way back, we saw people swimming!


Our route for the day. We had planned out some more possible stops, but decided we would get to them later. So, to home!


Day 2 - we took another day to finish our Route 🙂. We went directly to L'île Vierge to see the tallest lighthouse in Europe (and the tallest lighthouse of dressed stone in the world). 



From the plaque:
the île Vierge and its two lighthouses. The little white one, which is 33 metres high, was built between 1842 and 1845 with a house at its base for the keepers. It indicated the entrance to the Aber Wrac'h. As its range was insufficient, the "big lighthouse" replaced it in 1902. It is the highest lighthouse in Europe and the highest lighthouse in the world built with dressed stone: 82,50 metres high and 365 steps. It has been automated since 2010 and you can visit it from April to October. The access to the island is only possible by boat, from Plouguerneau or the harbour of Aber Wrac'h.

The point gave onto some beautiful views!



Statue of Victor Hugo 


An occupied menhir


Another lighthouse across an estuary 


On our way to the next lighthouse, we stopped at the ancient village of Meneham.



Then on to a beach - Plage des Amiets



There's a mini-causeway between the beach and a little island - you can see a couple of people wading out, even at mid-tide...


Here ended our day - I took a tumble and ended with some bruised ribs 😕


This was our route for part 2


See more photos in the Bretagne Lighthouses 2024 album 

28 August 2024

Crozon Peninsula Bretagne 2024

This time, we drove South for our day trip - to the Crozon Peninsula! 


It's dotted with forts and batteries from *several* wars. You can see why just from the view - it's a short hop across the estuary to Brest, a busy and important naval center, key to power on the seas.



Our first stop was the Pointe des Espagnols (Spanish Point)...

Another lighthouse!

Petit Minou lighthouse 

Remains of the battery 

~~~

From plaques at Spanish Point

The Pointe des Espagnols is an important site for the defense of the port of Brest. Fortified works have been superimposed there since at least the end of the 16th century.

During the last War of Religion, the King of Spain Philip II allied with the extremist French Catholics against the King of France Henry IV. In 1594, the Spanish army occupied the point to threaten Brest. It built a fort which was besieged and destroyed by the French royal troops and their English allies. Since then, the point has borne the name of the vanquished...

In the 17th century, Brest became a large naval base. In the 1660s, the accesses to the harbor were fortified. The oldest battery that still exists at the Pointe des Espagnols dates from this period.

In the 1690s, Vauban increased the armament of the point.

 A large battery for 32 cannons was built at the bottom of the cliff in 1695. In the 18th century, additional works, buildings and entrenchments on the land side were built.

In 1812-1813, Napoleon I had a tower built to strengthen the defense towards the interior.

Around 1850, the land defense was further strengthened by the construction of the rampart and the current walls.

In the 1880s and 1890s, major modernization work on the batteries was carried out.

In 1900, the point was armed with 21 large-calibre guns to fire on armoured ships, including 2 under casements at the bottom of the cliff. There were also 4 small-calibre guns to fire on fast torpedo boats. Other light guns were added to the end of the point in 1910 in concrete tanks. During the First World War, most of the armament was dismantled to serve on the front. Anti-aircraft armament was installed during the interwar period.

During the Second World War, Nazi Germany used Brest as a base for its navy. At the Pointe des Espagnols, it built a battery of large-calibre anti-aircraft guns and a solid land support point made up of bunkers, trenches and minefields.

 The point surrendered to the Americans without a fight in September 1944.

After the war, the site was used for training by the French army. It also began to become a tourist destination.

After the attacks in New York and Washington in September 2001, a battery of anti-aircraft missiles was installed at the point for a few months to protect the nuclear submarine base on Île Longue. This was the last military use of the site.

The Ministry of Defense handed over the Pointe des Espagnols to the Conservatoire du Littoral in 2009. Development work for the public will take place in 2023-2024

~~~

From there, we drove to see Tortoise Rock 🙂


And the Fort des Capucines 


And another fort 



We made a quick stop to view the Vauban Tower from Camaret-Sur-Mer


Then on to a viewpoint 




By this time, our energy was waning - fortunately, we had built in some flexibility, so we were able to quickly and easily return to our apartment 😊
Here's our route (it's interesting to me that the Iroise Sea is also known as the Celtic Sea!)


25 August 2024

Bretagne Festivals!

We're staying in the Recouvrance neighborhood of Brest, and it had a little festival last Friday - it's a short walk for us, so of course we went!

There were booths selling crafts and books, plus 2 sets of DJs. We got there in time to score a table with drinks, and caught the Klezmer band!



We enjoyed the DJ playing some oldies, then got some Brazilian food (super tasty feijoada - black bean stew) to take home for dinner 😋

The next day, we met our friends in Rostrenen for the Festival Fisel! Although we only went for one evening, this was a week-long festival, full of Breton music and dance. They had workshops for learning and practicing "the fisel" dance as well as playing various instruments. Besides traditional music, there were other types of bands, and there were several booths for food - crepes, grilled sausage, fries...



From a plaque:

Capital of Fisel country (named after the thread (la ficelle) which ornamented the hat men used to wear in ancient times), many events take place here every year. A site of natural beauty, the historical Nantes to Brest canal, the woods of Kerbeskont and the green path we now use as a cycle road. Its strategic situation and strong cultural Breton identity makes Rostraněn a welcoming and an exceptional center for visiting great touristic places.