31 December 2018

New Year's Day

New Year's Day

I grew up at the base of the Sutter Buttes, also known as The Smallest Mountain Range in the World. A nice stroll down our driveway, followed by a hop over a fence* or two, and we could hike all over! Somewhere along the line, a tradition flowered.
The Sutter Buttes, from Cordi Winery

Early every New Year's Day, hikers would meet at our house. They would bring a sack lunch, and something to throw into the soup pot. Dad would take off with the flock, making their way up to the peak, for lunch with a view. Meanwhile, Mom baked bread and put the soup on. The soup *always* started with the magic stone :-). By the time the hikers returned in the late afternoon, all was ready - everyone grabbed a bowl and dug in!

Why the stone? It's based on the well-known folktale of stone soup; my favorite version ends with the villagers rediscovering their sense of fraternity - the travelers give them the magic stone, and they use it to feed themselves and any new visitors.

Now that I'm in France, I thought it would be nice to carry on the tradition - to some degree. Our stoneless soup will be for lunch, and we will perhaps take a little stroll around afterwards - I'll keep my eye out for a suitable stone for future use :-)

We do have a mountain right out our back door, so who knows? Maybe next year...

~~~
* always arranged in advance, and with the permission of the various ranchers.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stone_Soup

~~~~~~ en français ~~~~~~

Le Jour de l'An

Je grandissais à la base des Sutter Buttes, aussi connu comme Le Plus Petit Chaîne de Montagnes de Monde Entier. Une petite promenade dans notre allée, puis un bond par-dessus une ou deux clôtures*, et nous avons pu faire la randonnée partout ! Je ne sais où, mais une tradition fleurissait.

Chaque matin du jour de l'an, les randonneurs se rencontraient chez nous. Ils apportaient un tire de sac, et quelque chose pour ajouter à la soupe. Père partait avec le troupeau, en faisant une randonnée au pic, pour déjeuner avec une vue. Au même moment, Maman faisait du pain et commençait la soupe. Toujours, la première chose dans la soupe était la pierre magique :-). Quand les randonneurs reviennent tard dans l'après midi, tout était prêt - tout le monde saisissait un bol et mangeait !

Pourquoi la pierre ? Celà c'est comme dans le conte folklorique, très connu, de la soupe des pierres ; ma version préférée finit avec les villageois redécouvrant leur sens de la fraternité - les voyageurs les donnent la pierre magique, et ils la utilisent pour nourrir eux-mêmes et des nouveaux visiteurs.

Maintenant que je suis en France, j'ai pensé qu'il soit agréable de continuer la tradition - dans une certaine mesure. Notre soupe pas-pierre sera le déjeuner, et après, peut-être nous allons faire une promenade - je vais chercher une pierre appropriée pour l'avenir :-)

Vraiment, nous avons une montagne juste derrière notre porte, alors qui sait ? Peut-être l'année prochaine...

~~~
* toujours organisé à l'avance, et avec la permission des propriétaires de ranch.

19 December 2018

France with Parents!

France with Parents! What worked, and... 😵

What worked:
  1. Wheelchair - Mom was recovering from a compressed vertebra, which meant that too much standing or walking was painful. We arranged for wheelchairs at the airports, and found that most museums lend wheelchairs for the visit. Even better, our local medical supply place let us rent one by the week! We ended up using it for 3 weeks (16€ per week, plus a returnable check for a security deposit), and even took it to Paris! The fun bonus - we got to take turns "pushing Mom around" LOL
  2. Jetlag recovery - we spent a couple of days relaxing in Barcelona (where we landed). We had no set schedule, but had a list of possibilities for sightseeing, most of which we did by cab/Uber.
  3. Different cities, Flying in and out of Europe - We flew direct to Barcelona, and Mom and Dad returned home direct from Paris. This (combined with wheelchair-help) meant low-to-no problems navigating airports, running for connections, and manipulating baggage. We didn't have any anxiety about missing a flight due to a late train. We got to have a taste of two different cities that we wouldn't have seen otherwise.
  4. Flexibility - we had a long list of things we thought would be interesting to see and do. We built in some low-key days, and had a few long days. Almost everything could be done on a different day if needed. In fact, we were all pretty tired on a day that we had planned for a long trip, so we did a short one instead. The long trip was delayed, and on a day when a lot of places were closed, but we still went - and saw plenty!
  5. Car rental - this was a little more complicated than normal, but it worked well! We checked credit cards for included rental car insurance (Visa), and Mom (a USA resident) rented the car, and added me (French resident) as an extra driver. We got a fairly large car (Peugeot 2008, which is big for France!), and could fit the wheelchair in the trunk for all our day-trips. A quick initial calculation showed that we still got roughly 30 mpg. Even though Mom used to be a professional driver (and I think would have liked to drive at least once), between the different road signs and aaaaalll those roundabouts, I ended up doing the driving. It had been nearly a year and a half since I had last driven in France, so it was fun for me :-). The bonus was that the rental car had a few features that are now on our must-have list. And Peugeot is off our car list...
  6. USA chip-and-sign credit card - these are getting to be more useful in Europe! There were only a few cases where they didn't work (one ATM in Barcelona, and a couple of restaurants). Pretty much everywhere else (groceries, gas, "other" restaurants), they worked. We even used them for tolls!
  7. Uber - we tried several taxi options, and it turned out that Uber was the only one that actually worked! I could order one from my phone - if we were out, all I had to do was turn on cell data (normally off for me) and wait a few minutes. I could confirm the total by email later. And! In Barcelona, we used the multi-stop feature to sightsee! The only not-great thing was that in Barcelona, I couldn't order a van (for the train) - either that option is not available there, or I just didn't see it until we were in Paris.
What could have worked better:
  1. Sim chip - we had a lot of misfires trying to make sure we could call each other if needed. Part of it is just how things are, but part was just not researching well enough. I thought Mom's phone was a dual SIM (it's not), so we had planned on her keeping her USA number and just adding a French one. My phone can't call a USA mobile number, and their apartment didn't have a phone :-\ (pretty much par for the course these days). We drove to a place that sells chips - but then we didn't know which size! And then couldn't open the phone to find out! Well, we ended up buying a micro, then looking up everything when we got home. It needed (1) a paperclip to open the chip tray, which was (2) a nano size... Nothing to lose at this point, so I cut the chip down and tried it - voila! Now we can call each other! But now Mom's USA number is out of commission for the duration. Fortunately, there's email and WhatsApp.
  2. Train timing Barcelona - we had intended to go straight from the train station in Sète to the car rental agent. But, the train didn't know the plan! We had quite a delay, and didn't arrive until after the rental place was closed. We took the bus, and returned the next day - we got lucky, and they had a car for us.
  3. Train timing Paris - yet another delay... Rick and I returned from Paris by train; this time the delay caused us to miss our connection to Sète. And it was the last train of the night! Monique came to our rescue - she came and got us (including the wheelchair)! Some day, I'll have the chance to pay back all this good karma!
  4. MyTaxi and Cabify - these were two taxi apps that we couldn't get to work. Cabify required an ID number in order to finalize my account, and it wouldn't take my non-Spanish ID as valid. I'm still getting email from them... MyTaxi worked just fine until the end of the ride - then it wouldn't charge my account! We scrambled for cash...
  5. Local bus pass - I didn't think to get a multi-use bus pass for Mom and Dad until too late. I should have had a 10-time card from day one. As it was, we got one near the end of their stay, and it had a few trips still on it when they left.
~~~
It's been a while, but I wanted to record the good, the bad, and the ugly...

16 December 2018

Chinese Food in France

We had been really craving *HOT* Chinese food - almost to the point of buying an air ticket somewhere!

Roomie to the rescue! My long-ago roommate saw my plea and sent me some amazing spices :-)

Tonight, I sorta-followed* a recipe for Kung Pau Chicken (see it here)

Aaaaand OH MY! It was soooooo good!

~~~
* Used leek instead of green onion, red wine instead of rice wine, added a carrot and 1/2 bell pepper, used Korean BBQ sauce instead of the sauce-from-scratch - 'cause that's what I had/could find...

10 December 2018

French Driver's License Exchange - Completed

French Driver's License Exchange

2017 was the beginning of enormous turmoil for French bureaucrats. Not only was there a new government, aiming for changes, but Brexit became real. Suddenly, a lot of Brits who had lived in France for many years had to make sure they could stay! This meant getting French documents that hadn't been needed before - all of which went through their préfecture. Requests for nationality jumped. As that process became backed up, many also applied for residence cards. Brits also applied to exchange driver's licenses. What used to take weeks, turned into a wait of months, and even years at some préfectures.

One of the government changes was to move all decisions about driver's licenses from the individual préfectures to a single location (Nantes). The préfectures would still collect the dossiers, but then simply pass them on to Nantes. Where they sat in an ever-growing pile until someone got to them.

Meanwhile, people who submitted a request to exchange their American driver's license in the middle of all this (people like me 🙄), weren't aware of the changes and delays until these things affected their exchanges...

I had posted my exchange experience in bits and pieces - usually, I asked about the status whenever I was at the préfecture (mine is Montpellier) for something else (like the status of my carte de séjour). This post (attempts to) pull all that together, along with links to the mixed posts where you can find more detail.

My driver's license exchange timeline:

  1. End of January 2017 - arrived in France
  2. April 2017 - OFII appointement and Sticker in my passport
  3. August 2017 - attempted to get an appointment for submitting my dossier. I should have submitted it as soon as I had my OFII sticker in my passport, but I had read an article that incorrectly said I had to wait 6 months after arrival. As many rules as the French administration has, not all of them are in writing.
  4. Late October 2017 - submitted dossier and got my first récépissé. The récépissé allows me to drive in France, but nowhere else. (http://slowtravelin.blogspot.com/2017/10/french-drivers-license.html)
  5. March 2018 - my first récépissé had expired, so I went to my préfecture to request a second récépissé (http://slowtravelin.blogspot.com/2018/07/the-prefecture-drivers-license-and.html). Later that month, I went back in to pick it up (http://slowtravelin.blogspot.com/2018/03/contacting-officials.html and http://slowtravelin.blogspot.com/2018/03/traveling-on-national-strike-day.html)
  6. July 2018 - my second récépissé is about to expire, so I went to the préfecture for another one (hah!). This is when I found out that 2 is the limit for the préfecture. My legal permission to drive, even in France now, is in limbo. A phone call to Nantes, followed by a letter, got my dossier off the pile (http://slowtravelin.blogspot.com/2018/07/the-prefecture-drivers-license-and.html)
  7. Late July 2018 - I got an email asking for the exact date that I had received my first license; you can bet I responded very quickly!
  8. Early August 2018 - I got another email, saying my request was approved, and they were making the card - it would be mailed to me, signature required. Well, that's very nice, but I was going to be away! And you only get 15 days to pick up a registered letter before it's returned! Fortunately (really?!?), it took a long time to fabricate the card, so it was only waiting a couple of days.
  9. August 2018 - unable to rent a car in the USA. Drove several family cars using a photocopy of my USA driver's license; I had an explanation all worked out, just in case. And I was vewy vewy caewful!
  10. September 2018 - back in France, I had a rental car arranged; I hoped to be able to drive, but wasn't 100% sure my license would be ready. Fortunately, it was waiting for me at the post office (signature required), and I picked it up on the way to the car rental agency.

This was probably the most frustrating of all the French administrative tasks I've had. I couldn't face even posting about the license finally arriving until months later. From what I've seen of more recent experiences (6 months beginning to end), the timeline seems to have gotten better. I hit the process at exactly the wrong time; it looks like the wait is on the downhill side of the big hump. I'm sure it is still a task filled with anxiety.

In summary, I started the process in August of 2017, and finally got my license in September of 2018.

03 December 2018

Slow Boats

There was a regatta yesterday, but hardly a breath of wind! These poor folks were Slow Boating!
Slow Boats

~~~
As soon as I get a good sized canvas, I'm painting this!