29 March 2017

Housing Hazards

Housing Hazards

Are We Home Yet? Our move has been so uncertain, and then so slow... But I finally feel like we're really *Home!*
Dad's painting of The Sutter Buttes - now showing in France ;-)

Our saga began in late January, when we landed in France. We had arranged for an apartment and car for the month of February, so the clock to find a place by March was ticking right off.

Our Timeline:
First week of February: look for possibilities... Dennelle at Renestance vetted a lot of places for us, and even stretched that proverbial box by approaching vacation home owners and AirBnB owners about a 1 year lease.
8 Feb: First apartment - We were getting quite anxious about finding anything at all, when we saw our first possibility. It's biggest "plus" was that we had a fall-back, and so our odds of meeting our March deadline were improved. As was our stress level :-)
10 Feb: 2nd apartment - Dennelle found another possibility - but we wouldn't be able to see it until late the next week (so, not until more than halfway through our month). But, we could read the description and see some pictures - and it looked good! In fact, it was one (of the many) that I had noticed in my pre-move research.
15 Feb: Appointment for 2nd apartment (we couldn't see the garage, since the agent didn't have the key); we also saw a 3rd apartment (in centre-ville)
17 Feb: We submitted​ our application for apartment #2 (48 hrs to wait for a response)
20 Feb: Our application was accepted! We have an appointment for the 28th to sign the lease and move. Dennelle will get the electricity and gas on, and the account in our names.
21 Feb: but! they want a Caution (1 year's worth of rent as a deposit in a bank - this is not paying a year in advance; it is a deposit). We start a money transfer for this, and find out it could take a week!
22 Feb: contact our bank about setting up the caution; our representative can't tell us whether they can do this or not - we'll know Monday (that's the 27th, one day before we want to move!)
23 Feb: money transfer is complete (quite a bit earlier than expected)
24 Feb: Dennelle was finally able to get the street address (but not apartment #), and arranged to get a pre-copy of the lease in the works. We later got the odd numbered pages. Our birthdays are wrong.
27 Feb: We got the rest of the lease, including the apartment number. Dennelle was able to arrange electricity and gas account. We found out that electricity requires an "emergency" appointment to turn it on. And! the gas won't be on for several more days (no hot water or heat). We changed our rental insurance and printed out the attestation. Then we contacted the bank - our account is *still* blocked, but we were assured it would be unblocked by tomorrow. They finally tell us that Cautions are only for young people (!!!). We pass that info on, and the agent doesn't seem to care...
28 Feb: Moving Day?!? We went to the bank to get our card and make sure the account is unblocked. It was not! We had money, but no way to access it! We tried to get a bank check to pay our move-in fees, but couldn't. Shortly after we got back to our apartment, our bank representative calls - it was unblocked now, and we could get the bank check in a Sète branch, or arrange a payment online. We packed up and cleaned the apartment, and drove to Sète for our lease signing appointment. Things went relatively smoothly. No one mentioned the caution, and the agent indicated that we could pay the move-in fees the next day (or two). We didn't get to see the garage (still no key). There was a surprise or two about the electricity and gas, but at least while we were there, the electricity was turned on. We decided to stay in the apartment without gas for a few days instead of going to a hotel. After signing the lease, we brought in our suitcases and drove back to our old apartment to check out. We got the rest of our things, got our deposit back, said good-bye, and then stopped off for groceries on our way back to Sète.
1 March: We returned the car (and *forgot* to fill the tank! that mistake cost us 30€), then transferred our move-in fees electronically at the Sète bank office (we had some more hoops to jump through, as the account had been blocked again!)
2 March: The gas was turned on, but soon after the men left, it stopped heating the water! The agent gave us the name of a plumber, and  Rick arranged for him to come the next morning. A handyman came and fixed the closet door, and (while he's there) showed us how to remove the light fixture (The living room light was not working; it turned out it was just the bulbs, but we had no way of knowing that...)
3 March: The plumber came​, and we (finally!) had hot water (yay showers!). But, we had to pay him directly. In cash, since we don't have checks yet. The agent hadn't arranged​ to pay him directly (as is usual, we found out). So we saved the receipt. We tested the washing machine and dishwasher. Rick ordered internet. We're getting closer...
7 March: We had been working on the inventory list, preparing for our follow-up appointment with the agent. She called to move it to the next day.
8 March: We got a second set of keys, still didn't see the garage; we accidentally get the elevator code :-\. We were assured that we would be reimbursed for the plumber (the agent took the receipt; we kept a copy). We were assured that we would get the 2 different garage keys, and that someone would fix the extra items we had noted as broken. We were assured that the vacuum cleaner would be fixed or replaced. Tomorrow... Later, I followed up on a hunch, and tried a different key on the garage - it worked! We still needed the key for the corridor, but I could see that the garage was usable (there were some things stored there, but there was still room for a car). The internet company told us the box was ready for us, and we went to pick it up! Rick spent a lot of time trying to get it to work (it didn't).
11 March: The internet tech guy came​ out and fixed the phone line, and! the internet worked!
23 March: Our agent has not returned any calls. We don't have the garage keys, nothing is fixed, and we don't know which method they want to use to reimburse us. We bought a vacuum cleaner - either it will be ours, or they will reimburse us for it.
24 March: I finally got the apartment mostly clean! We'll probably ask the neighbors to let us copy their garage-corridor key. We decided that we'll (that would be Rick) either write a letter or go to the office, but say that we will deduct the plumber from the rent unless we hear otherwise by the end of the month.
27 March: Rick sent the letter, and later that day, we got a response (from the accountant ;-) ) - they have deducted the plumber fee from our rent. And! they​ fixed my name (it was right on the lease, but wrong on the bill) - this is important for proving my residence, necessary for so many things!

So, yes, we are home :-)
And it only took a month...

Some things we wish we could have done - advice for our future selves (but probably not possible):
  • have all the dossier documents copied and with us; that lets us fill out the application on the spot (there's no fee, and no obligation)
  • get the exact and full address when making the appointment; it's easier to find, and you can move forward with other important aspects of moving, like turning on electricity, changing renter's insurance, banking, signing up for internet...
  • get the RIB (bank account information) for the agency (and full name and contact info for the agent) when making the appointment
  • arrange for electricity and gas turned on before moving; ideally, between the agreement and the lease signing. Even better, sign the lease (or intent to lease - is there such a thing?) well before moving
  • arrange for internet before moving (it can take a week)
  • get all the codes and keys when signing the lease
  • get the name and apartment number of the gardien / caretaker (ideally, get introduced) when signing the lease


28 March 2017

Treasure Hunt

Treasure Hunt

No matter where you go, you have to have certain things. And sometimes it feels like a treasure hunt, trying to find *anything* to replace those items you are used to using!

What are on our list, and how has our luck been?
  1. multivitamins: I like the gummy vitamins I can get in the states; France has some tablets that you plop in water. I haven't tried them yet, but will have to soon! Word on the forums is that it's best to mule them in from the states...
  2. Tums: so far, the only replacement we've found is Maalox. In pharmacies, it's pretty darned expensive.
  3. toothpaste: there are plenty​ of the brands we're used to seeing. USA (2x4oz/$8) France (on sale, 3x75ml/4.5€) or (3x2.5oz/$4.9) => so roughly the same at $1/oz, if you catch a good sale. Otherwise, it's about twice the cost here.
  4. unscented deodorant: hah! We finally found one that isn't too obnoxious. They are all on the order of 4 times the price.
  5. unscented lotion: hah! again! Auchan has a house brand that isn't too smelly or expensive
  6. unscented soap: yes! Marseillais is a popular basic brand, and has an unscented version. But it seems a bit harsh, so we are using a version that has a slight scent.
  7. brown rice: difficult to find, and expensive. Monoprix has a bio brand at about $1.70/lb (I used to get it in bulk for 50-70 cents/lb). So far, I've only seen long-grain. I prefer short, but this at least lets us continue to avoid white :-)
  8. cotton balls: LOL - no, only cotton pads are to be found
  9. vanilla extract: well, yes and no. There is vanilla flavoring, but not the kind of extract we used to get at Trader Joe's 

Still on our list to look for:
  • foam earplugs
  • specialized vitamins
  • vermouth
  • gel ibuprofen
  • Tavist
  • Benadryl

Some amazing successes:
  • Pastis. Yep, just try finding this in any form in the states. Here, different brands take up half an aisle in the grocery store!
  • Grand Marnier is *half* the price! (can you say guzzle?)
  • Licorice! Just today, Rick found a brand that really delivers! 
  • Air mattress - Yay! A lifesaver unless and until we find a real mattress (and have an unfurnished place to put it - that will be quite some time off!)
  • This! This magical substance was in our furnished apartment - I just tried it out on our dull, water-spotted shower fixture - wham! It's all sparkly! 


27 March 2017

A Shiny New Passeport!

Yes, "passeport" !

Rick got his French passeport today!!!

Ten days ago (yes, 10), Rick went to the mairie (aka Hôtel de Ville, or the mayor's office) here in Sète to ask about getting one. He had already filled in the form online, and had that and his photos and ID. He came away with an appointment for the next Monday, when he brought them all back. He got a tracking number, which showed on Wednesday that it was being processed. On Friday, he got a text message saying that he could pick it up at the mairie! So, Monday, he did! From appointment to waiting for pickup, it took 5 days!

Now to take it for a spin...
:-)

~~~
Passport 🙂

26 March 2017

Spring!

Spring is Here!
La Corniche

After *several* days of rain and threatened-rain...

This was me (aka, Bill the Cat, completely swiped):

We did get another nice sunset though :-)


And today, while still cool, the sun was out and the flowers were blooming! Here's a French Hollyhock (une Rose Trémière)

And our rock wall with bulbs and flowering vines


23 March 2017

Pastis Wars

Pastis Wars

I asked around on a few forums "what is your favorite pastis?" Well, my unscientific poll nearly sparked a war! *

The overwhelming response was:
** Ricard ** Is that because it is so great, or simply because of its history? (read more here)

Other favorites, in no particular order, were:

  • Henri Bardouin
  • Pastis 51
  • Pastis 45
  • Casanis
  • Fanny (yes, really!)
  • Eyguebelle
  • Pontarlier

Pastis that were noted, but not necessarily recommended:

  • Cornish Pastis (yes, a picture was included as proof that this really does exist)
  • Gin, gin, gin (mainly from pastis-haters LOL)
  • Pernod ("never" - apparently, it doesn't count as a pastis)

I also got quite a few suggestions about how to "use" it - straight, a bit of water, ice, whiskey, lemonade, tonic water, almond syrup, etc. I didn't take the "clean the loo" suggestion too seriously...

So, today, I had pastis on my shopping list - and what do you suppose was on sale??
I'm Ready!

~~~
* not really, but I couldn't resist the title...
Special thanks to La Vie en France - for both the suggestions and the "suggestive" answers...

22 March 2017

Keep Going?

Today, we walked to the post office to mail our taxes (to the USA - we don't do French taxes till later). The post office is near the beach, so we just kept walking. Then we said​, do we keep going? Maybe catch a bus back? You bet!

Here is a pretty good view of the Golfe du Lion, with Agde in the distance

A bit farther, we saw the memorial for the dead from the region in the Algerian war. Today was the anniversary of the end, and the monument was surrounded by flowers

Since we walked past the Théâtre de la Mer, we now know that we would have no problem walking back home after a concert (Summer festivities are coming up!)
We kept going, looking for the next bus stop, and came to the breakwater (le môle)

And inside it, a marina

As we had walked almost half way around the island, we caught the #5 bus over the mountain (no stops for us this time). I kept missing opportunities to photo flowers, but I got this one!


21 March 2017

Cashew Orange Swordfish

Cashew Orange Swordfish

In a pan on medium-low, melt butter, stir in hot red pepper, slow-cook onion slices and chopped broccoli stems
Add broccoli florets, chopped Clementine orange, cashews. Cover and cook ~ 5 minutes
Add swordfish (espadon) steak, cook 3 minutes each side
Remove fish, stir in milk for a bit of sauce.
Serve over brown rice, with freshly cracked black pepper over all.

~~~
Oops! We ate it all up before I thought of taking a picture...

19 March 2017

Étang Fun

We walked to the Étang de Thau this afternoon, mainly to get a close-up of the kite surfers...



And yes, there is a school for it

And sea kayaking

I had a pleasant surprise - there is also a horse club, with arenas, stalls, and trailers!

And even some inhabitants :-)

~~~
It was a pretty short walk to "Parking du pont levis;" it was less than 1/2 a mile there, and a bit more coming back (we live on a cliff - we can use the elevator to leave, but we can't get back in that way. Yeah.)


18 March 2017

Kite Surfers!

Today was pretty windy!

We took a nice walk down to the beach (strolling around for a bit more than an hour), hair blowing all around the entire time...

Meanwhile, the kite surfers are having a fine time! (They are the itsy bitsy spots out there on the étang)

Our route (4 1/2 km)


14 March 2017

Sightseeing Mont Saint-Clair by Bus

Sightseeing Mont Saint-Clair by bus:
Étang de Thau, from Les Pierres Blanches

Sète centre-ville and canals
Yesterday was all about chores; today, we went sightseeing! I had noticed that a bus* passed over the top of the mountain that forms the island of Sète, and decided that an adventure was in order :-)
I sketched out a plan...
Pack daypack, water, and windbreakers; wear walking shoes; take bus pass, emergency info, ID, camera, money
Catch #3 (pink line) bus at 10:41 at Le Vignerai
Stop at Savonnerie
Walk to Épi d'Or
Buy baguette and sandwiches (and maybe macarons!)
We had about half an hour, so we walked up and around a park

Catch #5 (light blue line) bus there at 11:25
From the breakwater, the climb is steep!

Stop at La Croix Saint-Clair at 11:36
Walk to view points and monuments: Notre Dame de la Salette, Mt Saint-Clair;







we walked around looking for the forêt domaniale (public forest) des Pierres Blanches viewpoint, but couldn't find it.
I did see some interesting rock walls...


Catch #5 bus at La Croix Saint-Clair or La Pompe at 12:26
Stop at Les Pierres Blanches (oddly enough, signs indicated that this was the forêt domaniale)
Eat lunch, walk, enjoy the views




Catch #5 bus there at either 1:19 or 2:09
Stop at the next-next stop (Germaine et Attila) and walk home (the walk from the lunch stop is pretty steep)

~~~
*Notes:
1) the #5 bus does not run on Sundays. So... don't try this then ;-)
2) take plastic bags to hold the sandwiches; they leak!
3) mosquitos are definitely out in the forest
4) here are the routes:
5) you can see and download schedules here:
http://mobilite.thau-agglo.fr/Pratique/Lignes-et-horaires
6) this is easy to do from the gare as well: take almost any bus (or walk) from the gare to l'Epi d'Or, follow the plan from there, then either take #5 back, or #3 from near the end of the #5 line

11 March 2017

L'Oursinade, or Sea Urchin Festival

Today and yesterday was L'Oursinade, or the Sea Urchin Festival in Sète centre-ville. We had heard about it from the tourist office when we first moved here, and I was determined to advance my education in seafood ;-)

We just missed our bus, so caught the other one; hopped off downtown, and walked toward the esplanade - where we were greeted by *music!*

We got tickets for wine, and dove right in

Oysters were tempting, but I was here for oursin! You can see them cutting them open in the background here


The line for beignets d'oignons was loooong (and never got shorter). I held our place while Rick got more wine for us. I had a lovely (if horribly mangled) conversation with a very nice young woman who was about to be married :-)

Just as our wine gave out, we arrived at the table!
French onion rings (oh man, are they good!)

Seafood, wine, beignets... And sweets and kiddies to round out the carnival - we didn't have either, just enjoyed watching ;-)


~~~
Tickets were 5€ for a wine glass in a neck pouch (very handy) and three "fills." You could also just buy it by the glass or bottle.