26 February 2023

Spain 2023 Valencia II

We're back! The last time we were in Valencia, it was early January, we stayed a few days at a hotel near Old Town, and we did a bit of sightseeing. We were full of vinegar then 馃槈.

Now, we're in an apartment near the beach, for a few days, and we're not very ambitious...

It turns out that today is the beginning of The Falles - a time to burn away all the bad vibes from the past year (sounds appropriate!). This celebration goes through the middle of March, so there's plenty of time to collect all those things you want to burn!

Little Pop-up Parades

Churros, Anyone?

Valencia flags strung across the streets 


Spain 2023 Flavors

One big thing for us about travel is the chance to try different flavors, and to have a lot of iconic flavors that we knew, but are hard to find elsewhere!  So, in no particular order, here are some...

Rioja - a full bodied red wine - the ones we have been trying are usually made with tempranillo and garnacha grapes. We've had this before, but here there are a lot of choices right in the supermarket. Naturally, with all those choices of grapes and location, you can't count on a consistent taste. Here are three from the supermarket - we liked the one on the left the best. The right one wasn't great. Note that they're all Reserved... 


Tempranillo - likewise, we knew we liked wines from this grape, but we didn't know just how much the flavors varied! In general, we found the Riojas were usually better than the Riberas, but once in a while, you struck gold! This Ribera del Duero turned out to be fantastic! 


Black beans - interestingly, the package uses "alubias" instead of "frijoles" - we fell in love with these in Costa Rica, and have had a hard time finding them in France. I know what is going into our suitcase on the way home!


Piment贸n - aka, paprika - it's everywhere in Spain, and used as commonly as salt! I've added more and more of the "spicy" style, but it takes a lot for some zing. The "sweet" version is a bit smokey.

Iberian ham - oh, yum! You see huge haunches of cured ham hanging from hooks all over! There's a type of pork here that is prized for it's ham - Ib茅rico Bellota (specifically, blackfoot hogs fed on acorns in the dehesa area) - but of course the rest of the hog is super flavorful as well. On the way to C贸rdoba, we stopped for lunch - I had a pork (Ib茅rico Bellota) sirloin, and Rick had carrillera (pork cheek stew); both were fantastic!

Speaking of pork, the meat aisle of the grocery store shows just how much it's a part of the regular diet here - there are pork meatballs (tried it; too much like sausage for me), and the burger patties and ground meat often have pork mixed in with the beef. 

Serranito - it's a hot sandwich, and very popular in Sevilla for a fast lunch. Ours (we split one, and shared a few tapas as well) had tomato, grilled chicken, roasted green chile (not spicy), and cured ham (Serrano perhaps?). Definitely something I'd do at home!

Montaditos - half-size hot sandwiches, these are common tapas fare. In general, we thought these were ok, but not very flavorful. By our last week in Sevilla, we were awfully tired of them (and all the potatoes that often come along for the ride).

C贸rdoba specialities (we didn't try all of them) include Flamenqu铆n, Salmorejo (cold tomato soup), oxtail stew, and fried eggplant with honey (it's very sweet)

Pa毛lla - it's hard to make a really bad pa毛lla, but at the same time, it's not easy to find a perfect one! There's always something that is not exactly right - too fishy, tough meat, no zing... We do keep trying!

This "Mixtas" one in M谩laga (La Bougainvillea) was *great*!



Tamales - NO?!?! I knew from my Spanish conversation group that tamales were not a thing in Spain, but I hoped the masa would be available. All I could find was corn flour (not the kind I use for tortillas though). I'm still looking...

Fruit! - Spain is known for it's oranges and strawberries, but we were pleasantly surprised to also find blueberries!

Olives - of course! 


These are very different than the ones above (I liked them a lot!) 

Licor de Guindas - what else do you do with fruit? Make a digestive, of course! This is from cherries, but with an anise base 馃構 - we first had it as a complimentary after-dinner drink in Sevilla.

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Of course, it's not all Spanish flavors; we also found a fantastic Indian restaurant (Masala in Mijas), a nice kebab take-out (Harina in Sevilla), and pretty good Chinese delivery (Ming in Sevilla) 馃檪馃構馃構

Then! In Sevilla, we went to Al Wadi (wadi is a usually-dry river valley) - oh wow, that was good! We had chicken beriani and lamb tajien (tagine). And decided to go again! 



Q: And where does pizza fit in? A: Everywhere! We first discovered Del Poble Pizzeria in Valencia - they do a great series of lactose-free pizzas; they also have restaurants in Sevilla, C贸rdoba, Madrid, and Barcelona! 

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An amazing thing here - many restaurants we've been to have menus with common allergens clearly marked! It makes it so much easier to scan for what's possible...


25 February 2023

Spain 2023 Belmonte

We were in C贸rdoba, and wanted to get to Valencia, so we did another search for a place to stay a night, preferably with something of interest to see. I had read an article about the 12 must-see castles in Spain, and guess what was just a little way off our route?!? Yes, Belmonte Castle! So, we did it!


Three and a half hours of driving brought us to Belmonte, a medieval fortress town of 2300 people in Cuenca, Spain.

Our first stop was to check out the old stone windmills - they came with a view!


Rick, tilting at windmills 

Then we spent some time driving around, looking for "The Mirador" (the official viewpoint of the castle). Hah! What we got was a very dirty car! And this, which was OK, but not exactly what we wanted...


At 4, it was time to check in at our hotel. It turns out, a Casa Rural isn't necessarily like a hotel - ours didn't have a front desk, and in fact, no one was there! We tried the doorbell a few times, wandered around the nearby park, and finally went to a neighboring retiree's club to ask for help - we certainly got it! Someone there knew the owner, and gave us the phone number 馃お (nope, our reservation confirmation didn't have that (it also didn't say anything about how to check in, which turned out to be "call me" 馃槖). Eh, minor setbacks...
A few minutes after calling, our host arrived, and showed us around; he gave us a nice map of the town, and drew a tour for us! So, away we went!

This is is one of the main gates into the old town 


Plaza de Pilar and a Convent

Here's the Colegiatta de San Bartolom茅, a cathedral




The next morning, we had a *huge* breakfast, I dropped Rick off in town, and then drove to the castle!

Castle entrance 

Interior courtyard 

Armory 

Bedroom with Mud茅jar style ceiling 

The toilets! Look out below!

After seeing the living quarters on the first few floors, I headed up to the turrets! Here are some views from the top! 




Back down on the ground...

This is from the top of the first wall in from the moat.

After this, I picked up Rick and we drove on to Valencia!

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See more photos, 3D views, and a bit of info here and here

And of course, there are a lot more photos in the Belmonte Spain 2023 album 馃檪. 


23 February 2023

Spain 2023 C贸rdoba

We had two full days in C贸rdoba!

When you investigate sites, you invariably see this classic view of the interior of the Mezquita-Catedral, the Mosque-cathedral.


Day 1 - we went to see the ancient synagogue, then to the Mezquita-Catedral (the mosque-cathedral),  finishing with a late lunch at Casa Pepe's. After a little shopping and relaxing at our apartment, we went to the Hotel Hesperia for the evening view!

The synagogue open for visiting was just one small room; to me, its history (see here) is the interesting part.

Ancient Synagogue 

The Mezquita-Catedral began as a mosque in 785 AD. It was converted to a cathedral in 1236. Its Renaissance nave and transept was added in the 16th century.
Inside, we were nearly overwhelmed by all the many arches, paintings, and carvings




The Mihrab - in mosques, this "niche" marks the direction of prayer. In this case, it is an octagonal room covered by a scallop shell dome. The mosaics are in the Byzantine tradition.



The Mihrab is centered between doors to the Treasury and the Sabat (an elevated passageway connecting the mosque to the palace).


More of the many paintings



All those ceilings!



The transept, where all the angles meet!


The choir


Dueling pipe organs (in the choir)


One of the pipe organs, above choir seating


The main altar, with the church transept above


The bell tower from the cathedral courtyard


And from outside


Puerta del Puente, once part of the defensive city walls


The Roman bridge and Calahorra tower from the old town side


The Roman bridge and Calahorra tower, from the rooftop terrace of the Hotel Hesperia (elevator, free, open to visitors even when the restaurant is closed)


Day 2: we toured the Alc谩zar de los Reyes Cristianos - the Fortress Palace of the Christian Kings. It's main attractions are the mosaics, gardens, and the tower (which we didn't climb). It dates from Roman times, and the mix of architecture shows its history - Roman, Visigoth, Moors, and the Spanish reconquest.
It turns out that an Alcazaba is a fortress where troops were housed. An Alc谩zar is a fortress that also housed Someone Of Importance, like a king. Sevilla and C贸rdoba both have Alc谩zars (notice the accent...), but M谩laga has an Alcazaba.


The mosaics date from the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD.

One of the mosaics 

There are 55,000 square meters of garden, in the Arab style - palm, cypress, and orange trees, ponds, and fountains abound.





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There are more photos in my C贸rdoba 2023 album.

Here is more information on the mosque-cathedral.

You can read more about the Alc谩zar here and here.